Friday, April 15, 2016

Final post

While traveling by motorcycle is an excellent way to see Canada and Alaska, we found that we often wanted for some additional equipment to more fully enjoy the experience that the land has to offer.  We regularly thought that it would be nice to have a kayak to paddle on some of the most fabulous, clearest lakes completely devoid of any boats.  Or a fishing pole to angle some of those beautiful fish.  But, where to put the salmon once caught?  Where do we put a cooler?
Wouldn't it be nice to just hang out here for 4 more days, or even a week?  Where do we stash a week's worth of food?  The nearest town is 120 miles away!

Our chosen mode of transportation did not provide room for much more than the essentials required for getting around and making a (reasonably) comfortable camp.


Like many others, we have already decided that we will one day return to Alaska, but next time with some kind of RV that would allow us to carry more stuff and conveniently overnight in less-than-ideal situations (thinking about mosquitoes and rain here).

We heard multiple times that 'Alaska changes a person'.  Well, it changed us!


Now it is time to close this adventure with a couple of quotes from Harry Gannett, Chief Geographer, U.S. Geological Survey, 1899:

"The scenery of Alaska is so much grander than anything else of the kind in the world that, once beheld, all other scenery becomes flat and insipid."

"If you are old, go by all means; but if you are young, stay away until you've grown older.  The scenery of Alaska is so much grander than anything else of the kind in the world that, once beheld, all other scenery becomes flat and insipid.  It is not well to dull one's capacity for such enjoyment by seeing the finest first."



Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Equipment Review

I think that we did a really good job preparing for our trip.  We used most everything that we brought with us (although we only used the stool just so that we could say that we did).

Vehicle prep

Our vehicle preparations were (mostly) spot-on:
* The clear plastic film did a good job of minimizing incidental scratches and nicks from rocks on the road.
* We scraped the skid plate a number of times in construction zones and on secondary roads.  I am sure that I would have done damage to the bodywork without this skid plate.
* Without the luggage rack on the trunk we just wouldn't have had any place for the tent and sleeping bags.
* The little pouches for glasses and incidentals worked out well.
* Cargo nets in the saddle bags and trunk worked well and are quite cheap.
* The backrest was welcome at times, but also a bit of a nuisance at times.  It wanted to constantly flop forward requiring someone to set it up before the driver could mount.

Things that didn't work as well as I thought they would:
* The foot rests (highway pegs) weren't as comfortable as I would have liked.  My feed kept knocking into the front fenders.

The vehicle itself

With the exception of the cruise control, the Spyder performed perfectly.  Its stability in the greasy construction zones of the Yukon was very welcome, as we didn't have to worry about falling over.  We talked to a number of two-wheeled riders who had issues with this, to the point of damaging ankles!
The Spyder always had plenty of power and was quite comfortable, especially on the pillion seat.  Although the spousal unit had no problems with the front seat, my backsides would complain after about an hour and a half when riding in the front position (this is not unusual for me, for I have this experience with many seats).

Power was always plentiful, tractable, and smooth.  I really like the manual transmission as it provides plenty of engine braking on long downhill runs.  The service tech in Eagle River was surprised to see how little brake wear we had experienced compared to the automatic transmission models.

Again, once one gets past the fact that it is not a two-wheeled vehicle, it is a remarkable machine that does what it does very well.  It is purpose-built as a three-wheeled vehicle and performs that role admirably.

Even thought the fairing and front of the vehicle protect the rider well from cold and rain, the handlebar warmers were most welcome during those ~50 degree days.  I  only broke out the cold weather gloves twice.

I tried using the radio a few times, but at anything over about 35 mph it is just garbled noise.  So most of the time I just left it off.

Other equipment:

We only needed the mosquito head nets twice.  After the horror stories we heard about the 'State Bird' of Alaska, we are not disappointed.  As small as these head nets are, they made for cheap insurance and were welcomed when they were  needed.

We also only used the Kelty awning twice.  Again, it was most welcome when we used it in Seward and Homer as someplace to get out of the rain without having to be crouched inside of the tent.  Definitely worth the space and weight, including the pole.

The Klymit sleeping pads are RECOMMENDED!  They roll up into a small package, yet are still very comfortable.

The Eddie Bauer and Marmot down sleeping bags did a good job of keeping us warm and could be compressed with the tent into the dry bag carried on the luggage rack.

Clothing:

Both the BMG Mercury (his) and Tourmaster (hers) jacket/pants combinations performed admirably!  I took the lining out of the BMG in favor of a light fleece jacket which made it easier to layer up/layer down.  The BMG liner has a lot of buttons/zippers/loops making it a chore to install/uninstall.
There were only a couple of times when were were a little cold, and we never got wet while wearing this gear.  Since we were tight on space, these jackets were worn almost constantly, and with the pants were welcome on wildlife and glacier viewing boat excursions.

Electronics:

The tablet was great for updating the blog and for internet searches.
Although I added a second power outlet in the front trunk of the Spyder, we rarely used it as it was often blocked by stuff.  However, the power outlet in the rear trunk was regularly used to charge phones, camera batteries, kindle, and tablet.

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Signs along the way

This post is just a compendium of interesting/obligatory signs encountered on our trip.  Enjoy!

 How about a cup of coffee in Seattle with a stranger?
Every trip along the Alaska highway includes this sign at Dawson Creek, B.C.
The Road Kill Grill (and RV park), Clinton, B.C.















Leave your muddy boots at home, boys










Someplace to stay in Valdez


Not sure what this is about, seen in the UAA dorm
















Another obligatory photo
Our contribution to the Signpost Forest...













The most obligatory sign of all - we made it!


What does it say about Seward when one wants to eat a 15-pound burger and fries before one dies?








Got to watch out for these
Mmm...tasty!

















The place to make a call when entering Homer, AK
Many of us wonder the same thing

The People...

One of the most interesting things about traveling by motorcycle, and especially by one as weird as the Spyder is that one gets to meet a lot of very interesting people.  What I hadn't anticipated is just how much the Spyder is a magnet for the curious, especially when sporting a Colorado license plate in Alaska!  There were many times that we had opportunities to meet with people we would never have met otherwise.

We had many conversations that went something like:
"How do you like that thing?"
Well, for our current travels it seems to do quite well, with two people and all of our gear it performs quite well.
"You rode all the way from Colorado?"
Yes.  We came up through Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Washington, and now we are working our way through British Columbia on our way to Alaska.  The return trip will be by ferry.
"Well, I rode the Alaska Highway back in 1974.  It was a dirt road back then."
Since I was a teenager I have always wanted to do this.  Now I can, so I am.
"You ride safe!"
Thanks, you be careful too.

Traveling by motorcycle also provides convenient opportunities for conversation.  Being 'adventurous' types, motorcyclists don't mind approaching other motorcyclists to see what they might have to say.  This is a great way to learn about the road ahead.  On the first day I noticed what I assumed to be an 'experienced' motorcyclist in Laramie, Wyoming.  After a little conversation I told him that we were on our way to Alaska.  He mentioned that the University of Alaska in Fairbanks would host people in their dorms for $40 per night.  While we never made it to Fairbanks, we did discover that the University of Alaska in Anchorage had a similar arrangement, which we took advantage of.  Staying in the dorm rooms proved to be much cheaper than booking hotel rooms in Anchorage.  This is something we would have never known about if we hadn't talked with this guy.

A couple of  times we heard the phrase "Alaska changes a person".  They said that once you come here, you want to come back.  This is something that I now understand.  We met several people who have arranged their lives so that they can spend time in Alaska.  In fact, we have already decided that we will be back someday.  Traveling by motorcycle was a great introduction to Alaska.  However, next time we come we will be traveling in some kind of a 'van' so that we can bring along things like kayaks, coolers, bikes, fishing poles, ...


Richard
We met Richard in British Columbia.  He appeared to me to be in his mid '70s and was on his way back home to California on his Kawasaki 650.  He had been to Alaska by motorcycle several times before.  Richard told us about the new, inexpensive yet nice Hostel at Liard Hot Springs.  This guy really impressed me as someone who lives life to the fullest, working through whatever it takes to do what he wants to do.

Grandma
We met a woman (didn't get her name) who admitted she was "pushing 80" and was also traveling by Spyder from Oregon to Fairbanks and then on to Anchorage to see her children.  Her husband didn't want do do the trip, so she continued on with her grandson and daughter.  She figured that this may be her last trip to Alasks by motorcycle.  A truly lovely woman who again, lives life to the fullest. Her machine is the maroon one below, her daughter's is the yellow one:
This photo was taken at a campground at Teslin, Yukon Territories.



Geno and Andrew
We met Geno and Andrew at the municipal campground in Seward.  Geno keeps wooden beads in his beard and has a minivan that he has been living in while traveling through Alaska.  He told us how he spent some time in Hawaii working on a coffee plantation, then he was in Oregon helping some friends building bee hives.  He connected with Andrew while traveling through Alaska.
Geno provides transportation while Andrew provides Salmon and campground fees.  A truly symbiotic relationship.  Geno traveled above the Arctic circle to experience 24-hour sunlight (something that we will do on a future trip).  It would have been nice to spend some more time with these guys, but we had miles to go.

Niv
At the same campground in Seward, Niv set up camp right next to us.  He is a young man who was traveling solo from Israel, with just what he carried on his back.  When I asked what brought him to Alaska, he mentioned how he had seen shows on television about Alaska and told his friends that he was going to go to Alaska.
After a couple of years his friends said "So, when are you going to Alaska?".  At this point he figured that he had to make good on this proclamation, so he got plane tickets to Alaska and train tickets to interesting locations therein (after Seward he planned to travel to Denali by train). From now on, Niv will be able to say that yes, he has been to Alaska.  That should shut his friends up!

Guenther and spouse
While camped at a free campground at the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge we met Guenther, who was traveling from Fairbanks on a big BMW motorcycle.  His wife was on a smaller Japanese bike.  We shared some very pleasant conversation and Guenther shared some salmon which he smoked himself, packed in oil.  Easily the best smoked salmon that I have ever put in my 'trout hole'.  Be careful with the leavings he admonished, as they make great bear bait!
Just a nice photo that I took at Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge with the sun shining through birch bark

The Guy from Brazil
On the way home traveling through Wyoming, we passed a guy on a really interesting motorcycle.  At first I couldn't figure out what it was.  A VW-powered Guzzi perhaps?  I have seen them before, as well as  Subaru powered Moto Guzzis.
Later, he stopped at the rest stop where we were cooling off, pouring water on our shirts in the 100 degree heat.  It turned out that he was riding his Amazonas from Brazil to Sturgis.  How cool is that?!

Regrets...
One of my biggest regrets is that I didn't take pictures of the people that we met.  While I have a few photos of the people we met on the ferry, I failed to take pictures of people we met on the road.  This is something I will have to rectify on future adventures.




Tuesday, August 11, 2015

The numbers...

This post is all about numbers, some meaningful, some not.

Buckets filled

  • Riding the Alaska Highway by motorcycle (this was a big one for me)
  • Visiting Alaska and notching the final state of all 50
  • Up close and personal encounters with glaciers
  • Icebergs (ok, not really)
  • Riding a train in Alaska
  • Seeing whales in nature
  • Seeing Sea otters
  • Puffins!
  • Grizzly bears (I've seen plenty of black bears)
  • Pitching a tent on the deck of a ferry
  • Riding the Sea to Sky highway (didn't know this bucket existed until we were on the highway)

Mileage/Gasoline

Total number of miles driven:  7464
Number of gallons of fuel consumed:  188.48
Miles per gallon (calculated):   39.6
Number of times ran out of fuel:  1
Comments:  The mileage figure seems really good for a fully-loaded 2-up, 1330cc machine!  I had heard that one can expect about 40mpg, now I believe it to be true.

When available, we typically purchased mid-grade gasoline.  In more remote areas we just purchased what was available.  Sometimes it was low-grade, sometimes it was high-grade.  There are certain things one doesn't ask when one is in certain locations.

We didn't keep track of how much we paid for fuel, as such costs tend to be quite volatile, and can vary very much based on location.  If one assumes a cost of about $3.00/gal, we spent about $565 just on fuel.  If we were driving an RV that got 13 miles/gal, our costs would have blown up to something like $1721.

Although not technically mileage/gasoline, the cost of the ferry from Haines, AK to Bellingham, WA was $1221.  This included two fares, $369 each for the spousal unit and I, and conveyance of the Spyder, which as a vehicle under 10 feet cost $483 (note that taxes are hard to find in Alaska).

Cool people met

12 - One meets a lot of cool people on a trip like this. This is the topic for another post.

Lodging/Camping

Number of days on the road:  29
Number of days on the ferry:  3
Number of nights in lodging:    8
Number of nights camping:      21 (not including ferry)
Most expensive lodging:         $150 cabin in Valdez (worth it because we were cold, wet, and exhausted)
Least expensive lodging:        $0 tent on ferry deck (well worth it for 3 days, fabulous views and good company)
Camping/lodging ratio:             3.625
Total spent on lodging/camping:   $1002.85
Comment:  This matches what we had projected.  We had expected to stay in nicer digs about every 3-4 days.  Most campsites run $10-$20 per night, whether the charge is in USD or CAD.  To calculate the total amount spent, CAD was converted to USD by multiplying CAD by 0.78.

Nourishment

We didn't really keep records of how much we ate/drank.  What one eats/drinks is so variable based on individual needs and desires that it didn't really make much sense to keep track of.  However, we did make an effort to eat fairly inexpensively.
With a camp stove we often made coffee while packing up the bike.  Breakfast usually consisted of in-camp oatmeal or granola bars.  Road food was often granola bars, jerky, bananas, and deli takeout.
We sometimes were so into riding that we skipped meals so that we would have one 'large meal' for lunch or dinner and just have road food for one other small meal.
When we were on the coast we splurged on some good local seafood since this is rather scarce where we live in Colorado.

Animals

We saw plenty of wildlife.  Some of the following are just 'guesstimates' as we drove by.
Bears: 4 black, 3 grizzly
Caribou: 8
Buffalo: 12
Antelope: too many to count
Stone sheep:  12
Bobcat: 1
Elk:  6
Deer:  7
Eagles:  57
Humpback whale: 1
Fin whale spouts:  20
Stellar Sea Lions: 27
Mystery whales (seen from ferry):  9
Dolphin/porpoises:  9
Puffins:   11
Sea Otters:  8
Birds removed from radiator: 1

Insects

Nights requiring head nets for mosquitoes:  2 (Jean just hid in tent)
Ounces of Coleman 100 MAX insect repellant used: .25
Number of times bike cleaned of bug collections (including radiator):  3

Sightseeing Excursions

Number of tour boats (Whittier, Seward, Portage Glacier): 3
Number of train rides (Whittier): 1

Miscellaneous

Number of times other drivers tried to user our lane when we were: 2
Number of bottles of muscle relaxant purchased: 2

Monday, August 10, 2015

Day 23, Haines Junction, YT to Haines, YT 167 mi

20 July 2015

[note to real-time readers:  We have had no/limited internet access for the past week.  Thus the reason for the lack of posts.  We are now back home (27 July) so I can write the posts that I was working on during our trip.  A number of these posts will be added in the coming days.]


Since we are no longer in any hurry to get to Haines, we took our time driving actually UNDER the speed limit.  This is quite alright on this road, as it is mostly an excellent, smooth road with fabulous scenery.  As we make our way to Haines, we are both full of 'Wow's, 'Ooh's, 'Fantastic's, and whatever other superlatives one can imagine.  Then we run out of superlatives and just soak it all in.

The scenery on this road just keeps on keeping on.  Vista after vista.  Glacier after glacier.  Mountain after mountain, all just fabulous.


YAFG

Two glaciers for the price of 1

YAFL

On this road we even spied our first grizzly bear.  It was minding its own business on the side of the road, just munching on some tasty berries or whatever.  No, it wasn't an Alaska grizzly bear, as it was a British Columbian grizzly bear.  In any event, still a genuine grizzly bear.

<<insert photo of grizzly here>>

Once we crossed back into the US and reached Haines, we found a small RV park right at the waterfront named Oceanside.  The proprietor indicated that we could put our tent right on the waterfront (where there was yet another fabulous view) for $15, showers an additional $3 each. 

View from our tent

She also mentioned that they would be grilling salmon and cooking some local shrimp for the campers.  Everyone was invited, with the suggestion to bring something to share.  I suggested a peach pie, but was overruled by the spousal unit who always favors brownies.  So brownies it was.

We had an excellent time visiting with the other campers and sharing stories of the road.  The proprieter of the RV park made everyone feel very welcome and keeps a nice place.  Ocenside RV park is RECOMMENDED!

Some numbers for the day:
Number of cruise ships passing by from Skagway to Juneau   3
Number of families camping from Germany 1
Number of families from Great Britain 1
Number of salmon observed caught by snagging (but let go)1
Number of bears sighted 1
Number of bald eagles sighted ~5

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Day 29, Ogden, UT to Longmont, CO, 506 mi

26 July 2015

Now we are on for the final push home, a 3 state day (Utah, Wyoming, Colorado).  We are on the road early (around 7:00 am), and head towards I-80.  With 3 bars on the fuel gauge, we stop at a place on the edge of town for coffee, fuel, and something to eat for breakfast.

The fuel pump says 'See Cashier' when I insert my credit card.  Going inside, I am informed that their gas pumps are not working and that someone is on the way to fix them.  Not wanting to wait around, we continue on down the road.

Now with the fuel gauge showing 2 bars we see a 'gasoline available' road sign at the next small town. Turning off the highway, we head into town but can't find the gas station.  So we are on the road again.

In a short while we reach I-80, but now the fuel gauge is showing only 1 bar.  Hmm... The next exit says 'No Services'.  The exit after that says 'No Services'.  The next exit is a long way off.  Can we make it to Evanston, WY?

I slow the speed down and drive on the shoulder to conserve fuel.  We pass the port of entry/watercraft check station, and continue along slowly.  Eventually the engine just stops.  No sputtering, no warning, no nothing.  Over 7000 miles driving through sparsely populated British Columbia, the Yukon, and Alaska, and I run out of fuel in Utah - Ack!

Conveniently, we still have a whole liter of 'white gas' for the camp stove, which we haven't used for a while.  It all goes into the gas tank.  The Spyder doesn't like this fuel very much (it pings), but it seems to run  reasonably well.  At about 40 miles a gallon, I mentally calculate that we can continue run for about 10 miles.  Soon we pass a sign that says it is now 10 miles to Evanston.

Continuing to drive slowly on the shoulder, we take the first exit into Evanston and again run out of fuel about two tenths of a mile from a gas station which I can see on the other side of an overpass.  I grab the camp stove fuel bottle and start walking.  In no time a police officer stops and asked if I am the guy with the out of gas motorcycle.  "Yes I am" I reply.  He says to get in the truck and takes me to the nearest gas station where I fill up the fuel bottle.  He then says he would take me back to the bike. With another liter of fuel in the tank the Spyder starts right up and off we go to the gas station and fill 'er up.

After a tasteless Mc Donalds' breakfast muffin and coffee we are back on the road cruising at full speed.

At one of the rest areas in Wyoming I encounter a guy riding a Volkswagen-powered motorcycle.  He tells me he is from Brazil and is heading to Sturgis.  Yes, the bike has a Brazilian license plate.  He tells me that except for a section in Central America, he rode this thing all the way from Brazil (Colombia, Mexico, Arizona, Utah, Wyoming).

When I said that we were on our way home from Alaska, he thought that was pretty cool and asked how many miles we had ridden.  I told him that we had ridden about 7,000 miles.  I really liked this guy and wish that I could have spent some time talking with him, as he probably has some really good stories.


Now this is a RIDE!

I believe that his bike started out life as an Amazonas.