Day 21 Palmer, AK to 30 mi near border, 351 mi

18 July 2015

This was another day about putting on miles as we make our way to Haines to catch the ferry to Bellingham, WA.  After three weeks it seems hard to believe that we are on the backside of our adventure.  By now we have kind of figured out a rhythm  on the road.

Morning  comes.  I start the stove and boil water for coffee.  The spousal unit deflates the sleeping pads and stuffs the sleeping bags into a plastic bag.  Off comes the tent rain fly.  If there is sun is out the rainfly is set to dry.  If it is  cloudy/raining, the wet side is folded in on itself.  After coffee, the tent is packed into the dry bag with the sleeping bags along with the laundry.

After coffee, all of the camping detritus is stuffed to the various storage locations on the machine and the dry bag winds up on the trunk rack. Maps are  consulted, and a plan is made for the day.  Then we are on the road.

Time to get fuel.  Someone asks about the Spyder resulting in another nice  conversation with a local.  "Where you from?"  Colorado.  "All the way on that thing?" Yes, this is our first time to Alaska.  "Well Alaska will changes a fella"  I can see how.  "How do you like that Spyder?"  Once you get past the idea that it is not a motorcycle and appreciate it for what it is, it is really a fine machine for this trip.  "You should really check out the Cassiar road  the views are spectacular". Well, that will have to wait until next time, as we are on our way to pick up the ferry.  Like the man said, Alaska will change a fella so that he (or she) will want to return.

Today we finally saw the mythical Alaska bears, we had heard that they exist, and today we actually saw them.  Two cubs and their mama.  We don't have evidence of the cubs, but we do have photographic evidence of the mom.  See:

The cubs are already in the woods on the left side of the road

We can also see that fires are still burning along the border with Canada.  Hopefully they will show up in the following:

We could see 4 fires at once from here (not all visible in photo)

Highlight of the evening:

We stumbled onto the Lakeview Campground at the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge some 30 miles north of the Canada border.  It is free (but accepts donations), has a clean pit toilet, but no water.  A sign says that water is available at the visitor's center. 

There is even a photo blind for taking pictures of birds in the adjacent wetland.  This campground is obviously well-loved and is RECOMMENDED.

Another couple motorcycle camping at the same campsite just shared with us some salmon that was caught just two weeks ago and smoked in Seward, packed in oil.  Easily the best smoked salmon I have ever put in my trout hole!